For travel to Baja from San Diego, there are a few choices. Though if you're going down the West coast, there is only TJ (Tijuana) and it's a gong show. The others are much further East, and only considered if traveling to the gulf coast. That's the way we were going - San Felipe - so we had better options than TJ. The best option is Tecate. It's a VERY small border crossing. Not that popular as most people will be traveling from San Diego (TJ border crossing) or Arizona (Mexicali crossing). Here's a map to get your bearings. San Felipe is approx 325 KM from our campsite.
We depart the campsite by 8:30 and head for the border just a few miles away. Fortunately, Matt & Vicky did a little research on this border crossing, or our experience may have turned out very differently. The crossing is nothing like you've seen (or maybe you have). There were two lanes, zero vehicles waiting, zero booths/border guards. All that stood between you and Mexico was a simple gate (picture a train track crossing, or parking lot gate), and a light with a big red X. I had no idea what the procedure was, but Matt walked me through it.
You pull up to the gate and stop. Wait. Border guards in a building either the right or left of the area (you have no idea which building) take a look at your vehicle from behind tinted glass. If they like what they see, a green arrow appears on the light and the gate opens. If that doesn't happen....well...let's leave that as a surprise.
Just after we stop at the gate, a big 4X4 Baja rig pulls up in the next lane. He waits about 5 seconds. Green light. Gone. We wait for 10. Then 20. Then 30. Oh crap. We were expecting some resistance, as travel trailers & RVs provide endless options for smuggling. Yes, people smuggle things INTO Mexico. Mainly guns. In that first 30 seconds we start to take notice of the 4 soldiers in full cammo gear & assault rifles. Were they starting to edge towards us? Amazing what the mind perceives when under stress.
At about 45 seconds, the green arrow comes up :) We've been accepted!!! Not done yet though, still need a travel visa. You need one if traveling farther than Baja California or if you're staying more than 48 hours. Many Americans still don't abide by this relatively recent law, but we weren't taking any chances. It's about $20 USD, and good for a year, so better safe than sorry.
We asked the border guards (yeah, the guys pointing guns) for directions to immigration. They didn't speak any English, but pointed us in the general direction. It was a bit of a maze, so we came back twice to make sure we were going the right way. It appeared as if they were showing us back to the states. We eventually found it. Two agents were there to help us. Both civilians, one spoke perfect English. In 10 minutes we were off.
Gasoline
We had read many places that gas stations were scarce. Especially since the global financial meltdown, as the tourist dollars from the states all but dried up. Many business have been wiped away, along with the towns and gas stations needed to support them. We didn't need gas right away, but stopped to fill two jerry cans for backup. Not much English again here, and my credit card wasn't working. I think they just didn't want to take it. No matter. Let's get some miles done.
The route takes us just south of Mexicali, then angle towards the coast of the Sea of Cortez (AKA Gulf of California). There are two road options from Tecate to Mexicali - toll road or public road. We took the toll road. It's a bit price, but the road is first rate, and straight as an arrow - for 90% of it's length at least. There is a mountain system to traverse, so they couldn't make it all straight.
Before leaving BC, Vicky had put together a travel plan with suggested things to see. En route today was a petroglyph site called
El Vallecito. Entrance fee was just a few dollars each, but only one camera per group was allowed. Matt would be responsible for the pictures today. The wind was chilly, so I threw on some jeans and we hit the trail. It was about 4kms in total, and winded through about 5 or 6 petroglyph sites.
This area was inhabited by the Kumeyaay people dating back 10,000 years ago.
This was the site of the most activity.
The rocks here would have provided an excellent shelter for a tribe of 10-20
Some petroglyphs were in small shelters.
Not for the claustrophobic.
Time to go. We still had a loooong way to San Felipe and wanted to get there in the light.
About a half hour after the petroglyph site (and another toll), we arrived at the mountain range descent.
As you can see above, road winded back and forth....and back and forth...and... And the scenery was spectacular. Sorry about the next pictures, a camera just cannot do this place justice.
Holy boulders Batman!
This would be our last scenery stop of the day. Still had a long ways to San Felipe.
We did have one gas stop though. Another interesting transaction - again zero English. While stopped, Vicky noticed a few drops of fluid lying under the truck. Perfect. Just into Mexico and we have a mechanical. I pulled the truck off into a large adjoining parking lot. Matt and I both got under the truck to inspect. It was a transfer case seal leak. Didn't look to bad and had some transmission oil with me.
One more unexpected stop on the way. I wasn't prepared for this one. It was a military checkpoint. They're all over Mexico (really, I should have know about this, just poor prep on my part). Depending on the traffic, you'll have at least 4 soldiers at any checkpoint. All have assault rifles. I think this one had about 10 soldiers, and three lanes available. There is a decent sized, line, so it takes us about 10 minutes to get to the front. We're on.
The soldier asks us where we're headed (I think, don't know much Spanish), and asks me to get out of the truck. I say San Felipe and "no hablo Espanol". He asks me a couple of other things, which I have no response for except the above. He then points towards the trailer. I was expecting this, and we have nothing to hide, so no big deal. While I'm heading back to open the trailer, a second soldier asks Matt to get out of the truck. He then talks to Vicky a bit in broken English. He takes a look in the cab, and spots a book of matches. He asks if he can have them, as he's going on a camping trip on the weekend and could use them. Vicky says no problem. Good response.
Meanwhile, the first guy looks through the trailer. I've got $2k in US currency in the trailer, so I'm not letting this guy out of my sight. He looks through a few things, pulls out a bag at random and asks me if it's mine. I say yes. It's just clothing. He also asks me about the motorcycle. Turns out he knows a few words of English. I do my best to act out responses. He seems confused about looking through the trailer. Like there is supposed to be a routine, but he has no idea what it is. He's also struggling to figure out a way to ask questions. After about 5 minutes, another soldier comes over to the truck. Matt said later he figured this guy was putting the stop to the search to get the line going. It was obvious we weren't smuggling anything. The soldier in the trailer quickly got out and said we could go. A waive of his hand provided the only translation I needed.
BTW, these checkpoints are primarily for guns. They're also looking for drugs, but guns are the big threat. Without them, drug runners are defenseless.
We arrived in San Felipe just before dark. Found a decent site on the beach. A local came out of a nearby building, to great us, then went straight over to the beach to flag down another guy. This guy was apparently affiliated with the campsite, and was American. He gave us the rates and told us we could set-up anywhere. Money would be sorted out another time.
There were only three other RVs there, so we were able to snag a site right on the beach. Time for a beer.
